Trucks & Fabrication

Dump Body Installation

Body mounted to your chassis, hoist set and plumbed, gate and tarp fitted. Drop the truck at the Penrose Street shop.

Dump body mounted to a Peterbilt chassis by DM Welding

Installing a dump body joins two things built by different companies, a body and a chassis. The chassis maker publishes the rules for that joint in a body builder manual, and those rules decide most of how the install is done. We work to the manual for the chassis in the bay. The examples on this page come from Peterbilt's 2024 Heavy Duty Body Builder Manual, because it is public and specific.

The first rule is about where not to drill. Peterbilt's manual says not to drill holes in the upper or lower flange of a frame rail when mounting a body, because a modified or damaged flange can make the rail fail early. The body goes on with mounting brackets or U-bolts instead. If a U-bolt does not fit, the manual says to use a larger one rather than notch the flange to force it.

Holes that do go into the rail get drilled, never torched. The manual gives the reason plainly: heat from a torch changes the material properties of the rail and can lead to cracks. It caps each hole at 0.060 inch over the bolt diameter, and asks for hole centers at least twice the diameter of the largest hole apart. Any unused hole gets a bolt and nut torqued into it.

Between the body subframe and the top flange of the rail goes a spacer. Peterbilt calls for one on every install, to stop the two steel faces chafing and corroding against each other, and for bracket mounts it recommends a strip of rubber or a plastic such as Delrin or nylon. It is a small part. Leaving it out is how the top of a rail gets worn thin.

Rail sectionCross-section of a C-channel frame rail with a body subframe above it and a spacer between them. Both flanges are shaded red as no drilling zones and marked A. The web is marked B. The spacer is marked C. Rail section A A B C Web, side viewSide view of the rail web. The top and bottom flange bands are shaded red and marked A. Two drilled holes sit in the web, with a dimension B between their centers. Web, side view B A A
AFlanges. Do not drill the upper or lower flange when mounting a body. Use mounting brackets or U-bolts, and never notch a flange to force a U-bolt fit.BHoles in the web. Drilled, never torched. No more than 0.060 in over the bolt diameter, with hole centers at least twice the diameter of the largest hole apart.CSpacer. Always between the body subframe and the top flange, to stop the steel chafing and corroding.Source: Peterbilt 2024 HD Body Builder Manual, Section 4. Not to scale.

Clearance comes next. The body has to sit high enough that the tires cannot reach it as the suspension moves, and Peterbilt's minimum is 8 inches between the top of the tire and the bottom of the body. We measure it before the body is bolted down, because it is far easier to change a spacer height than to move a mounted body.

Once the body is on, the manual requires a front and rear alignment before the truck goes back into service. A body changes how a truck sits, and the alignment is where that shows up first.

The body also has to be safe to work under. OSHA's construction standard, 29 CFR 1926.601(b)(10), requires trucks with dump bodies to carry a positive means of support, permanently attached and able to be locked in position, so the body cannot come down while maintenance or inspection work is being done. That body prop is part of the install.

The work covers bodies built here and bodies bought elsewhere. If the chassis is too short for the body, the frame stretching gets planned into the same visit. Bring the truck to the Penrose Street shop in Sun Valley with the chassis make and model, and the body's drawings or dimensions if you have them.

Our work

Work from our shops

White dump body sitting on its chassis under a shop canopy
Body down on the chassis, under cover.
White Peterbilt with its dump body mounted
Mounted and back on its wheels, at our Lancaster shop.
Black dump body mounted on a white chassis, rear three quarter view
Black body on a white chassis, at our Lancaster shop.
FAQ

Questions about dump body installation

Will you fit a body I bought somewhere else?

Yes. The mounting rules come from the chassis maker rather than the body builder, so a body from another shop goes on the same way. Bring its dimensions or drawings so the subframe can be checked against the rails before the truck is in the bay.

Why is the body not simply welded to the frame?

Because chassis makers say not to. Peterbilt's manual states that its frame rails are heat treated and should not be welded, since the heat undoes that treatment and greatly reduces the rail's tensile strength. The body is held on with brackets or U-bolts, and nothing gets drilled through the rail flanges.

How high does the body need to sit?

High enough that the tires cannot touch it as the suspension moves. Peterbilt sets a minimum of 8 inches between the top of the tire and the bottom of the body. Other chassis makers publish their own figure, and the install works to the one for your truck.

Does the truck need anything after the body goes on?

An alignment. Peterbilt's manual requires a front and rear alignment after a body installation, before the vehicle goes back into service.

What is the body prop for?

It holds a raised body up while someone works under it. OSHA 29 CFR 1926.601(b)(10) requires dump bodies to have a positive means of support that is permanently attached and can be locked in position. The hoist alone is not that support.

Need dump body installation?

Free estimates. Tell us the job and we will send back a spec and a price.